Eglwyseg Escarpment

Trad and sport climbing conditions · Eglwyseg, Llangollen · Limestone · New service · Give us feedback

Check access before travelling. A good weather score does not mean the crag is open. Restrictions are not checked live here.

Scores compare weather suitability for climbing, not safety or guaranteed dry rock. The daily score averages the represented sectors; check their details below. How climbing scores work.

Promising

91

Rock is likely to be mostly dry.

413 m · representative sector

Main escarpment

Rock surface
Probably dry
Recent rain
0.0 mm / 24 h
Climbing-window rain
0.0 mm
Face wind / gust
6 / 10 mph
Above-crag gust
17 mph
Best drying window
14:00–18:00
Greasy-rock risk
Low
Recent rain and drying 0.0 mm / 24 h · 19.2 mm / 3 days · Dry spell: about 2 days

We estimate how quickly the rock may dry using the amount and timing of recent rain, then assess each following hour for sunshine, shade, wind, temperature and humidity. Rock type, seepage tendency, season and dew risk also affect the result. Sheltered holds and drainage lines can stay damp after exposed rock dries.

Hourly modelled rainfall over the 72 hours ending Sun 18 Oct, 08:00 BST. Peak hourly amount: 2.6 mm.0.01.53.0mm/h15 Oct 13:00 BST to 14:00 BST: 0.10 mm, forecast at update15 Oct 14:00 BST to 15:00 BST: 0.10 mm, forecast at update15 Oct 15:00 BST to 16:00 BST: 0.10 mm, forecast at update15 Oct 16:00 BST to 17:00 BST: 0.10 mm, forecast at update15 Oct 17:00 BST to 18:00 BST: 0.10 mm, forecast at update15 Oct 18:00 BST to 19:00 BST: 0.10 mm, forecast at update15 Oct 19:00 BST to 20:00 BST: 2.60 mm, forecast at update15 Oct 20:00 BST to 21:00 BST: 2.60 mm, forecast at update15 Oct 21:00 BST to 22:00 BST: 2.60 mm, forecast at update15 Oct 22:00 BST to 23:00 BST: 1.30 mm, forecast at update15 Oct 23:00 BST to 00:00 BST: 1.30 mm, forecast at update16 Oct 00:00 BST to 01:00 BST: 1.30 mm, forecast at update16 Oct 01:00 BST to 02:00 BST: 1.60 mm, forecast at update16 Oct 02:00 BST to 03:00 BST: 1.60 mm, forecast at update16 Oct 03:00 BST to 04:00 BST: 1.60 mm, forecast at update16 Oct 04:00 BST to 05:00 BST: 0.70 mm, forecast at update16 Oct 05:00 BST to 06:00 BST: 0.70 mm, forecast at update16 Oct 06:00 BST to 07:00 BST: 0.70 mm, forecast at updateThu 15 Oct08:00Fri 16 Oct08:00Sat 17 Oct08:00Sun 18 Oct08:00
Each bar is one hour. The window ends at 08:00 BST on Sun 18 Oct, before this climbing day.

Past estimates at updateForecast at update

The dry-spell label counts time since an hour with at least 0.2 mm of modelled rain. Lighter traces remain visible in the chart. Rainfall is modelled, not measured at the crag. For a future climbing day, some or all of its preceding rain is still a forecast. Totals include snow as its equivalent amount of water. Times are local.

Shelter can reduce wind-driven rain, but also the breeze that helps rock dry. Rain totals are not reduced for face direction, and shelter never guarantees dry holds.

Why this score?

This is a weather-suitability score, not a percentage chance of dry rock or a dedicated bouldering-friction rating. Cold, dry conditions can suit friction but still make exposed climbing and belaying uncomfortable.

Starting score
100.0 points
Rock moisture, rain and dew
-5.9 points
Wind on the climb
-0.2 points
Extra wind above the crag
-3.0 points

Starting at 100, we deduct for conditions that could spoil the session. Wind uses the larger deduction from sustained wind or gusts, not both added together. A small amount of forecast rain still counts even when the rock should dry quickly. The rain allowance only tops up the moisture deduction, so the same rain is not counted twice.

These are practical suitability weights, not measured probabilities or a safety rating. A high score does not guarantee dry holds or comfortable wind at every climb.

Light wind up to 10 mph carries no deduction. Above that, small comfort deductions build gradually. Where topping out or top-belaying is relevant, stronger wind above the crag also counts. Recent rain can leave a small allowance for damp patches even after good drying; this reduces with drying time and only tops up other moisture deductions.

Final score: 91. Contributions are rounded. Low scores are bounded at zero; conservation and weather warnings still apply. Midges are shown separately.

Surface drying does not rule out seepage. We use rain over the preceding 72 hours and a broad rock-type seepage allowance. We do not model individual cracks, peat drainage or river levels. Rock may remain wet along drainage lines after exposed surfaces dry.

Rain in preceding 72 hours
19.2 mm
Possible dew or condensation
0 hours

Rain history is modelled, not measured at the crag. Dew uses an estimated rock temperature. Tree shade is estimated broadly; wind and humidity beneath individual canopies are unresolved. These are broad signals, not observations of a particular route.

Sun and shade

About 10.0 hours of general sunshine from 08:00 until sunset (about 18:10). Local sun and shade are not resolved, so no face-specific estimate is shown.

How we estimate sun and shade

We use a digital elevation model (a 3D map of the land), the sun's position and the direction the crag faces to estimate when nearby hills or the face itself block the sun. Forecast sunshine and cloud then help estimate how much sunshine is likely. Where terrain or face-direction data are missing, we show general sunshine only.

Vegetation is not mapped in detail, and we cannot resolve small rock features, ledges or overhangs. Hills beyond the sampled 2 km can also change local shade. Sunshine does not guarantee dry or ice-free rock.

Wind, rain and daily score: 08:00–18:00 local time.

Experimental wind estimate: Shelter at individual holds and belays is unresolved. Strong gusts may differ substantially; summit-station validation does not establish crag-level accuracy.

Wind: The mapped face may offer some shelter from the northeasterly wind, but open ground above the crag is more exposed, with gusts around 17 mph. A precomputed terrain-flow profile refines how the face shelter changes with wind direction. The face is broadly most sheltered in easterly flow and most exposed in northwesterly flow.

Season: Spring and autumn drying can remain slow when rock is cold, shaded or humid.

Rock is likely to be mostly dry, though some routes may still have damp holds or seepage.

Did this match the crag?

A broad sector and surface report is enough; no route-level claim is needed.

Forecast generated 12 October 2026 at 05:30 UTC. Weather input cached 12 October 2026 at 05:30 UTC. Includes Mountain Weather rock and exposure estimates. This is a build time, not a single model-run time.

Weather data: Open-Meteo (CC BY 4.0). Adapted by Mountain Weather.

Use it as a starting signal

Limestone still needs an on-arrival check.

Usually positive where it is rough and dry, but polished limestone can become very slippery when wet and seepage may linger. Broad crag-level rock context; individual sectors and routes may cross different rock, polish, lichen, superficial deposits or seepage.

Rain is model-grid precipitation, including any snow as water equivalent; nearby crags can share it. Aspect and terrain refine wind and drying, not cliff-by-cliff rainfall or rain shadows.

Crag drying and sheltered-wind estimates have not yet been validated against crag-level observations. Published summit checks are not a validation of low crags, woodland or individual belays.

The forecast combines recent and expected rain with broad drying, humidity, dew and wind signals. The climb and open ground above the crag are treated separately where the mapped face gives useful shelter context.

Reviewed OSM cliff ways and broad face aspects, not route boundaries, exact belay positions or a climbing topo. Forecast-grid weather and representative sector geometry only. Check live access information and touch-test the rock before climbing.